Ethnic Variation in the Effects of Skin Aging: Role of Melanin

Melanin emerges as a key determinant of the differential effects of skin aging across ethnicities, highlighting the importance of considering ethnic-specific factors in skincare and anti-aging interventions.

April 2020
Ethnic Variation in the Effects of Skin Aging: Role of Melanin

The population in the United States is expected to get older, with estimates indicating that by 2030, nearly 40 percent of Americans will be over 65 years old.

As people live longer, their skin not only ages chronologically or biologically, but is also exposed to environmental factors, such as sunlight, that can cause age-related skin damage.

Neelam Vashi, MD, director of the Center for Ethnic Skin at Boston Medical Center, has published a review article in Clinics in Dermatology that examines how aging occurs in patients and the differences attributed to skin type, exposures and genetic factors.

For the review, researchers examined 41 peer-reviewed published articles between 1970 and 2018 that focused on aging in ethnic skin through PubMed.

Data included in the articles demonstrate that all skin types will show signs of damage from exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays, including skin discoloration, collagen loss, and/or skin cancer.

Some key findings from the review:

  • Melanin is a key difference in light and dark skin types.
     
  • Patients of color are more likely to experience changes in pigmentation (dyschromia).
     
  • Key differences in fibroblasts (cells that promote wound healing and collagen production) explain the increased skin thickness of African American patients, resulting in wrinkles that appear several years later than white counterparts.
     
  • Patients of East Asian descent are more likely to experience hyperpigmentation, but wrinkles do not form as early in the aging process.
     
  • Patients of Hispanic descent also experience fewer wrinkles earlier in the aging process.
     
  • Patients of Caucasian ancestry (European, North African, Southwest Asian ancestry) more often have thinner skin and experience wrinkles, loss of skin elasticity, and reduced lip volume.

"Aging is inevitable, and each person will have a unique experience with how their skin changes as they age," said Vashi, who is also an associate professor of dermatology at Boston University School of Medicine.

As a dermatologist, Vashi treats a large number of patients for a variety of skin conditions related to aging. The only treatment he always recommends is UV protection, which helps protect all skin types from the sun’s harmful rays. "Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in the US and using sunscreen is an extremely important practice to protect your skin," Vashi added.

Some of the other treatments available for aging skin include:

  •  Topical agents, antioxidants, chemical peels, and lasers can be effective in treating dyschromia.
     
  •  Botulinum and soft tissue toxin fillers can help treat wrinkles and sagging skin.

Conclusions

Aging is an inevitable process that manifests differently depending on a patient’s skin type, exposures, and genetics. All skin types will at some point exhibit photodamage, bone remodeling, and soft tissue redistribution.

Patients with skin of color may present with different concerns, including changes in pigmentation and variable changes in facial structure depending on ancestry. Given the increased melanin content , these individuals are generally less prone to signs of photoaging.

  • African Americans typically exhibit greater skin thickness, which contributes to reduced wrinkles but noticeable jowling.
     
  • East Asian populations are predisposed to hyperpigmentation but delay wrinkle formation.
     
  • Hispanic skin is quite diverse and can age differently depending on heritage, but also demonstrates delayed rhythms.

When considering treatment , topical and invasive therapies are available to address common problems.

For patients with skin of color, dyschromia is a notable feature of aging, and topical agents, antioxidants, chemical peels, and lasers can be effective measures to mitigate pigmentary changes.

Fillers and neuromodulators are also useful techniques for improving signs of volume loss and wrinkles.

All skin types would benefit from broad spectrum UV protection .

It is important for the clinician to take into consideration the functional and structural changes of ethnic skin to tailor treatment to the specific needs and demands of the rapidly aging and rapidly diversifying population.